March 11/12 - Earth hiccups, Japan shakes, tsunami to follow. Then Earth sneezes, Kilauea volcano on Hawaii erupts. Floods in Brisbane, quakes in Christchurch - this world journey heightens our awareness of an itchy-scratchy planet. We arrive in Manila, an industrial metropolis of 15 million people, capital of Philippines. As we sail into Manila Bay, we smell the city before we see it. If I were a glass-half-full type, I'd see the thick pollution as the hallmark of a bustling economy, human industriousness, and the creation of wealth - a tide that raises all boats. If I were the glass-half-empty sort, I'd rant about the environmental damage and subjugation of the masses. And finally if I were a Matrix-inspired 'there is no glass' person, I'd say the city is an illusion - the world is what you make of it. Today is reader's choice day, so I'm allowing you to choose your favorite description.
We tour some historical sites around Manila. The archipelago of the Philippines has over 7,000 islands, making it the largest archipelago in the world. It has been continuously inhabited for over 20,000 years and once was connected to Asia via a land bridge. The bridge disappeared long ago, though the islands were still visited and ruled by many foreign peoples: Polynesians, Persians, Arabians, Indians, Chinese, Indonesians, just to name a few.
Magellan was the first European to travel here, and Spain ruled the Philippines for over 300 years. The Spanish empire came to an end however in 1898, when they lost the Spanish-American war to the U.S on a coin toss. The two sides met in Paris, generally had a good time, and ended up signing the Treaty of Paris. They chose Paris primarily because that seemed like more fun than meeting in Philadelphia. During the negotiations, the U.S. agreed to pay $20 million to Spain in return for Puerto Rico, Guam and the Philippines, plus an option on a future country to be named later. Buy two, get one free.
In this crowded city street peddlers seem to materialize whenever a tour bus shows up. They are assertive, though less so than Balinese. Actually I needed a hat this morning to protect against the bright sun, and magically a hat seller materialized and sold me a stylish cowboy hat for $3. I'm sure that if I needed a lawn mower or set of steak knives, those would have materialized as well. I just love the entrepreneurial spirit.
Next day took a cab to the Mall of Asia, said to be the largest shopping mall in Asia. Of course we negotiate the cab fare before getting in - no metered cabs here. Wander the mall for no particular reason. It is crowded with Philippino people, very few foreigners. Good prices, much lower than the tourist-centric mall a few miles away. Good energy here, lots of young people, ice-skating rink, stores very well-staffed.
Much migration to Manila from rural provinces as people seek economic opportunity. Some take the migration concept further by moving to wealthier countries where pay is good and work is available. This makes people one of the Philippine's most important exports. About 11 million Philippinos live and work abroad, and with their strong sense of family responsibility, they send remittances regularly to help care for those back home.
Tonight we will leave Manila around midnight. Never did find the factory where they make manila folders, but did acquire a general impression of the place. Generally educated people who want to work, strong family values, bilingual. Lots of traffic, low wages, pollution, simultaneous construction and decay in the city. In many ways similar to the constant growth and decay of a rain forest. Or perhaps my impression is just an illusion.
Tomorrow at sea, heading to Taiwan.
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