World Cruise 2011: Dubai, U.A.E.

May 3,4: Dubai, U.A.E. This is the second largest emirate of the U.A.E. and has made a name for itself by constructing bold, even outlandish projects, then inviting the world to come and do business here. The tallest building on the planet is here, as well as the first 7-star hotel. They've built man-made islands in the shape of palm fronds, which caused some serious financial challenges when the world economy began its protracted retreat in 2008. Construction continues throughout Dubai however, and it is a visually impressive place. The are reportedly 50 shopping malls, one with an indoor ski slope, some with ice rinks or aquariums. The architecture is the most creative I've seen so far, despite the relatively small population (around 2 million people). Clearly, the sheik of Dubai is trying to use the available oil wealth to make a statement, and to prepare his country for the distant eventuality of running out of oil.

I spend two days riding around this city and seeing various sites. Traffic is orderly and moderate. All of your favorite retail stores are here, including Bulgari, Cartier, Versace and more. Even DeBeers has a store here. And if you're slumming it this week, you can shop at H&M. Restaurants range from the ridiculously over-priced, to familiar franchise names such as Starbucks, Pizza Hut, Outback Steakhouse, and McDonalds. There are patisseries, Italian restaurants, and generally every sort of eatery one could want.

I visit the Dubai Mall, reportedly 12 million square feet of space, of which about half is leasable retail space. I do the math: 275 acres. It has an ice rink, cinema and many other attractions, plus roughly 1,200 retail stores. One of the most dramatic features inside the mall is an aquarium that features what they claim to be the world's largest acrylic panel. This panel forms one side of a huge tank. There are 8' sharks, dozens of manta rays, thousands of fish. The panel is perhaps 100' long and about 20' tall. And it's not in a special area. Shoppers view the fish routinely while wandering the mall.

Almost everyone in Dubai speaks English, and of course the locals all speak Arabic as well. In the mall my mission is to buy a camera and some toothpaste. Replacing my ancient digital dinosaur (3 years old) is easy. There are dozens of idiot-proof point-and-shoot models to choose from. The store clerks all speak fluent English and patiently help me in my selection. Some of the workers are natives, though most are from India or Pakistan. Prices are comparable to the U.S., but no sales tax. The toothpaste is not so easy. I ask an information clerk where I can find toothpaste. In perfect English, he asks "what is toothpaste?" I find the supermarket and eventually acquire my Colgate dental product.

Wandering around the mall, most of the people wear western styles, though there are also quite a few in traditional Muslim dress. Many women in abayas or headscarves, quite a few pushing strollers with one or more young children, and many men also in headscarves and white robes. Many are on cellphones. They all mix seamlessly in the mall. I stop for a snack, sitting at a table next to a couple in traditional Muslim garb. I notice that to eat, the woman lifts her black veil to get food to her mouth, so that even while dining, her face is not viewable.

Other than the absence of sales tax, there are no bargains in Dubai. Prices seem comparable to the U.S. The real bargain belongs to native citizens of the emirates. They have a generous social safety net that provides a comfortable living, so most of the work is done by foreigners. The system seems to work, and while there are some abuses of low-level foreign workers, it has not stemmed the incoming flow of labor.

Next stop is the impressive hotel Burj Al Arab. You can google this hotel and read all about it, which is probably better than any description or photos that I could provide. Our tour includes high tea on the 27th floor of the hotel. Our guide is a woman born in Hungary, married to a man from Syria. She converted to Islam and has been living in Dubai for 16 years. She wears a headscarf, though no burka. She still carries a heavy Hungarian accent, so I find her version of English difficult to understand. This is a typical story in this emirate, with foreigners greatly outnumbering natives.

Viewing the inside of the hotel is a real treat. I've seen lots of fancy hotels all over the world, nestled in various beautiful locations. I must admit that so far, this place is the most memorable. Its design is stunning - over the top, but in a beautiful way. The high tea event is pleasant, conversing with fellow travelers in a ridiculously ornate dining room, comparing notes from our recent visit to India, a place that could not be more different from U.A.E.

After tea we wait outside the hotel for our bus. We watch as a steady parade of the rich and not-quite-famous people roll up to the main entrance into the hotel. We admire the fleet of Rolls Royce cars waiting to transport guests in comfort and style. We view the adjacent beach with vacationers enjoying sun, sand and surf.

Our final stop in this land of too-much-money is the beautiful marina - home to hundreds of attractive yachts, surrounded by outdoor cafes, elegant residential buildings. The place is extremely clean, polar opposite to India. There are beautiful fountains, elegant brick or stone paving, neat landscaping and plenty of color. There is no trash anywhere. Lady Bird Johnson would have been proud.

It is a noticeably uncrowded place. A few diners sit under large umbrellas sipping on ice tea, admiring the surroundings. But most of the chairs are empty, like the roads and buildings. Perhaps everyone has gone to the mall. In eastern religion, nirvana is defined as complete emptiness. In real estate, it's the opposite - crowded, busy and full occupancy is the ultimate goal for property owners. For now, the supply/demand equation has worked against these capitalists, as occupancy rates throughout Dubai remain low.

Still, it's an attractive place with lots to offer. The centerpiece of this part of Dubai is the Burj Kalifa - tallest building in the world. To my eye it is perhaps the most beautiful modern building I've seen. Unfortunately it's not doing well financially. Despite their ample money, or perhaps because of it, the aggressive construction in Dubai during the past decade has fallen victim to the world's economic pendulum. Vacancy rates throughout the city remain high, defaults are common, and if not for their rescue by the neighboring emirate of Abu Dhabi, many lenders and owners of the projects in Dubai would have suffered further losses.

Despite their economic challenges, I leave U.A.E. with respect for what the leaders here have tried to accomplish - to integrate their Muslim culture with the rest of the world in a forward-looking way, rather than backwards. Its an encouraging experiment that at least on the surface appears to work.

Next country: Oman.

One solution for too much money.