June 3,4: Day number 141 - We sail through the Bay of Biscay then up the Gironde estuary in southwest France. After about 40 miles the estuary narrows and bifurcates into two rivers. Left is the Dordogne river, right is the Garonne. We go right. Another 10 miles and we arrive at the bustling city of Bordeaux.
It's a flat city, mostly on the west bank of the river, center of a very old wine industry. Getting off the ship, we feel as though we are stepping into a Renoir painting. No port terminal, no security, no formalities. We dock right in the middle of the action. This is in such sharp contrast to so many ports, a great first impression.
Time to explore, learn about this place. Population 250,000; over 1 million if you include the surrounding metropolitan area. It's a fun place to visit. People are out and about, walking, biking, shopping, eating. Some are even working. The architecture is a mix of old and new, mostly old, while the culture is vibrant and modern.
Around 60 B.C., thousands of Roman soldiers marched into this area. On weekdays their work kept them busy with conquest and plunder. On weekends however, they liked to relax, hang out with friends, and enjoy a good bottle of claret. When they conquered Bordeaux, the resident Celtics drank only beer - no wine was available. So the soldiers planted vineyards, opened a school of enology, and established the Bordeaux region as one of the world's premier wine-making communities. Today this region produces nearly one billion bottles per year.
On the first day I tour some chateau/wineries in the vineyards surrounding Bordeaux. I visit the postcard-like town of Saint-Émilion. Very quaint, old European. Wine production in the entire Bordeaux region is strictly regulated. Growers are never allowed to irrigate their vineyards. Reds must always be a blend of varieties, and so on. Many wineries today are being bought by big corporations, especially overseas investors. One winery has symbols of Chinese architecture outside its facility. Insurance companies are purchasing these businesses as high inheritance taxes squeeze out small family operations. However the families often continue their work, but in their new capacity as contract growers or vinters.
Modern Bordeaux is a thoughtful blend of old an new, perhaps in the way that Bordeaux wine is always a blend of several grape varieties. The city retains much of its 18th century architecture and wine-making heritage, though has somewhat diversified its economy - a necessary move since many other regions in the world now make fine wines. The river front of this city is lined with stately old limestone buildings. Between the buildings and river is a wide space with paths, gardens and plenty of open spaces to just hang out. The area is filled with people enjoying their weekend, watching street performers, pushing strollers.
Across from the Place de la Bourse, in the center of this wide public space, is a modern feature called the Miroir d' Eau, or Water Mirror. It is a huge flat fountain that people can walk in, designed to reflect the image of the stately buildings across the street. The fountain 'fills up', less than an inch deep, and every 20 minutes or so creates a dense fog that slowly dissipates, revealing a mirror-like reflection of sky and the historical buildings across the street. Instead of being a hands-off monument, this water feature is very much for the people. Children of all ages take off their shoes and play in the water, roll in it, splash, even drink it. Fun to watch, very cool. Google it to learn more.
In the town, away from the river, there are sidewalk cafes everywhere, and many of them are crowded. Lots of shops, most of the streets are for pedestrians only, very few cars for a large section of this city. I walk for several hours just to read the energy of the place, then leave Bordeaux with an strong, positive impression. A pleasant, attractive place, worth visiting again.
(top of page: Locals enjoy watching the ship as much as passengers enjoy watching the locals)
Children of all ages enjoy the Water Mirror
Street in Bordeaux
Light rail in front of opera house
Cafe outside opera house
Carousel in a wide plaza
The picturesque town of Saint-Émilion
Center of the port as seen from our ship
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